Credit Card Debt Loan Calculator Facts
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Top Questions and Answers
Should I apply for a fixed rate loan to pay off credit cards? I have $25,000 in total credit card debt (3 cards). Interest rates are 4.99, 5.99 and 11.74. The card with the highest balance is also the highest interest rate. According to a debt calculator I used, I can pay them off in 42 months with my income. I have been offered a fixed rate personal loan of $30,000 at 7.74%. I would pay off the credit cards and use the rest for legal fees (personal situation). Using the same debt calculator, I can pay the loan off in 48 months easily and probably sooner. Is it worth it to apply for the loan? Will it hurt or help my credit? I do need the extra cash and do not want to take it from my home equity or put more on credit cards. Thank you for your responses.

XOXOXO replied: "Oh nooooo! Just get another job and work your ass off...what ever don't apply for a loan...it will set you back even more then you know..."

wizard replied: "file for bankruptcy"

topguntony replied: "You best contact Consumer Credit Counceling ,they are a non-profit co. that can help you.They are legit."

Credit Expert replied: "You are better off with a home equity loan. Low rate, tax break. You may have to put up collateral on the personal loan unless you have great credit, and a large net worth. Check out that detail before you proceed."

Sarah K replied: "I'd prefer you to look at your credit card offers, look at the lowest rate APRs offered, call your highest-rate credit card company and negotiate a lower APR. CUT YOUR CREDIT CARD INTEREST. Cutting your credit card interest rate is really just a matter of doing one of two things: reducing the rates on your curorent cards or transferring your balanaces to cheaper cards. * Start by laying all your cards out on the table and listing the APR you're paying on each. Note whether those rates are fixed or variable. * Next, ready your ammunition. Gather all the preapproed offers you've received in the mail. (When you call your companies to ask for a break, you need to be able to tell them who's offering you a better deal and how much better it is.) * And have a rough idea of how valuable a customer you've been: how long you have had the card, how much you charge a month or year, how much interest they're earning each year on your business, and whether you pay on time. When you've got it together, you can proceed. Call the toll-free customer service number and ask or a lower rate... calling and asking for a lower rate results in a reduction 56^ of the time -- and a substantial reduction (1/3 of their current rate) at that. Here's a to follow when you call. Begin with: "I have [name of card] with you and my interest rate is [X] percent. I received another offer in the mail from [other bank's name] for [X] percent, but before I take it, I want to see if you can lower my interest rate instead." If the representative says they're not authorized to do that, you say: "Look, you and I both know that if I transfer my balance today, next week your bank is going to send me an offer to come back at an even lower rate. Why don't you just save the bank the cost of that effort by giving me several points today?" If the rep says it's not possible because your credit card is at a fixed interest rate, you say: "Actually, that doesn't have anything to do with whether or not you have the ability to lower my interest rate. A fixed interest rate only means that my rate doesn't very with fluctuations in the prime rate. In fact, the bank can raise it on my account at any time by just giving me 15 days' written notice. And the bank can -- if it chooses -- lower the rate today." If the rep still says they're not authorized to do that, you say: "I'd like to speak to your supervisor." Speak to a supervisor and ask again. Even if you get a substantial cut in the interest rate from the first person, it's worth speaking to a superisor to see if you can do any better. The person on the front line of customer service will be authorized only to cut your rate by a preset amount (if at all). The customer service representative may also insist that the supervisor doesn't have the power to cut your rate either, or -- if you've already gotten a break -- to cut it further. That may not be true, so insist on speaking to the supervisor anyway. Threaten to close your account. Let me be clear here: You don't WANT to close your account. It won't do good things to your credit score. However, if the bank believes that you're willing to close your account -- and you've been a profitable customer -- then you stand a better chance of getting what you want. Keep a record of whom you spoke to and what was said. If your promised rate cut -- or fee waiver -- doesn't materialize, then you're going to need a paper trail to back up your story. Knowing to whom you spoke, when the call was placed and what was promised is key. Transfer your balance. If you're not successful in reducing your interest rate over the phone, it's time to transfer your balance. There are two places to find good balance transfer offers: your mailbox (the average person gets five credit card solicitations a month) and at websites, including bankrate.com and cardweb.com. I hope this helps!"

fly boy replied: "I would never get a home equity loan.The interest rate is high and you will pay for those credit cards for the life of your loan . Try this site for some help."

sunshine_today replied: "Why don't you just borrow enough to pay off the amount on that highest card and continue to pay off the other two lower interest cards? There is no point in borrowing money at a higher interest rate to pay off a lower rate. You can't borrow your way out of debt. Once you do that, spend less, maybe get rid of that card altogether. Your interest rates aren't that bad. I think borrowing at 7.7% to pay off 4.9% is foolish."

SG Elite replied: "Its tempting but I would discourage you from getting the $30K loan. Work hard to repay what you owe now and drop all others. I know the extra cash will come in handy but remember your walking out of a $25K debts and getting into a $30K debt. Simple mathematic will tell you its a bad move."

K_Seeks4_Answers replied: "The one that I would consider putting on the new loan if you take it would only be the 11.74 percent credit card. Then maybe take a loan out only to cover it and the money you need right now because of your situation. And as soon as you can pay double on the other ones, to get it paid off sooner. You want to rob peter to pay paul, and it doesn't always work out good this way."

bundysmom replied: "Why would you take 2 credit cards that interest rate is LESS than the fixed rate loan and transfer them to a higher rate? Use the loan to pay off the highest interest card......pay the minimum on the 2 lower cards but take the payment you were making on the 11% card and send it to the fixed rate. This should help bring that balance down faster. When the fixed rate loan is paid, take that payment and add it to next higher interest card until paid off and then take THOSE payments and send them to the lowest card. Make sense? OR...see if you can do a balance transfer of all 3 cards onto a 0% credit card and go from there. It would only make sense to transfer all 3 if you can."

Will proving that my credit debt will be paid off within the month help me get an auto loan? I'll be a first time car buyer. As a kid, I received my first credit cards and got a little carried away, tallying up 4k+ in debt, on top of school loans which tally about 7.5k right now. I'm in good standing with the school loans, but because I've neglected the 2 credit cards that totaled 4k in debt, my credit score is currently at 600 points. Well, now that I'm older, 23 in fact, and have a better job, I will be paying off these debts. I started a 3 month payment plan with 1 which will end on the 27th of this month, and on the second credit card, I'll be paying off in two payments. One scheduled for tomorrow, the other scheduled for the 30th of this month. Now, my car was recently wrecked by a drunk driver (It was parked). It was a hit and run and I only had liability, so I'm out of luck there. I have no down-payment for a new car. I'm hoping that with a credit score of 600 points, will having proof (letters from the debt-collectors on the scheduled dates of payments), help me with an auto loan? Also, a side note/question: I figure my APR's going to be about 15%. Since the debt will be paid off this month, and I need a car ASAP (I need it for work), should I settle for a high APR and simply re-finance when (if) my credit score improves in the next two months? I'm looking at a 485 dollar car payment with an APR of 15%, which is within my budget according to financial calculators online. I also plan on sending off 1k dollar payments for the first 5 months. Will explaining this to the loan (Toyota) company help me? Or will they not consider this? I appreciate the answer, but I would like to clarify the payment. the 485 dollar monthly payment for the car loan factors in the 15% interest rate already. It's quite within my budget, about 15% of my monthly income, 20% of my take-home. I've taken in to consideration all of my bills. It's a Scion TC, stripped down with no features. It's got an excellent trade-in value which I plan on doing after 3 years.

kate replied: "You would pay a $485 car note with 15% ? That sucks . They know that anyone that would pay that is totally retarded . Did you learn nothing from those credit card debts ? Do Not buy That car until your FICO goes over 700 . Do Not buy that car until your other debts are paid off . No , the "gonna be paid off' song flys NoWhere . Only when it is , will your FICO go up and that ridiculous rate go down . Get a beater or scooter or bus pass until then , That's what an intelligent person would do . >"

irishofficer replied: "I would get a transportation car used and cheap just a bobo car! Vehicles are just transportation get a credit card secured if have to never take balance over half its worth keep it about a year ! Then reward your self with a new car something you really want when fico is higher points ! Never now whats going to happen in this economy and its hard to get a loan right now too! So used car lot small bob car if cheap drive it til it falls apart about a year then kick it to curb get some thing nice!"

captainchris replied: "Were your credit cards in collections? If so, you may have some difficulty getting a car loan, if you do expect the rate to be high. Look, I'm gonna tell you like it is. You need a car ASAP to get back and forth to work, right? Why not do a buy here pay here? Your gonna have to factor in the monthly car payments plus the rate. Not to mention you will need full coverage on the new car for the life of the loan. If you go in with a buy here pay here, you only need liability. Then, you can work on building up on your credit. Let me tell you something about myself, while I was in Aviation school, I'm now a Captain for a major airline company, I did the same thing you did, I racked up my cards limits, and ended up with a low credit score, it took me a while to build up my score. Now I have A+ credit, you do not wanna mess around with lowering your score, if you do then it's hard to get credit. When I landed my first Pilot job, I wanted so bad to buy a brand new BMW, I couldn't find any banks to give me a loan, even tho I had about 30% for down payment. They didn't give me a loan. So, I settled for a pre-owned BMW. After buying the car, I worked on my credit, making lots of phone calls to creditors to get my score higher. I also was getting small loans, borrowing a thousand here and a thousand there, but I always payed off in full before the due date of the minimal amount. So, maybe you should take my advice and buy a cheep used car for now, and just borrow here and here and only borrow what you can pay off at once before the minimal amount due date. Just go to your financial institution and do like I did and take out a personal loan. Even if you don't need it, borrow it anyway, and pay it in full before the minimal is due.. Learn from your mistakes. I did, and I never went over my head in credit again since then, and I never will. Well, should say never, because you never know what's gonna happen down the road. I should say, I don't plan on going about my head in credit. Good luck..."

Uriah J replied: "Yokimato, Try getting an online auto loan quote. The automated form will let you know if you can be approved. It's free and you can get an answer in minutes."

Should this single new grad with large student loan debt buy a house? Relocating for a new job which is offerring a substantial sign on bonus and when combined with my new salary all the mortgage calculators say I can spend $2200/mo on housing and that I can be approved for a $150-250K mortgage. I pay $450/mo in consolidated student loan debt ($80K) and have 2 years left of a $352/mo car payment. I have excellent credit and no credit card debt. I'll be moving to an area I'm familiar with as I grew up in a town nearby. Should I buy now or rent for awhile first?

lois r replied: "I think it depends on how big the sign in bonus would be. If it is enough to cover the car payment then pay the car off, That way you are freeing up $352 a month which can be used for the mortgage payment. $220 a month for housing is an excellent price. To find something for that in rent is nearly impossible. Even the "bad" areas in the city I live in rent is at least $300 a month. Maybe an option is to buy a starter home or a handy man special-which are fairly low priced. Fix it up, get it appraised then you can probably get a second mortgage to pay off the college debt. Then you can pay down on these mortages and sell that house. Take the money you make from the sale and use it for a down payment for the house you want."

Fool in the Rain replied: "Sounds like you've done pretty well so far. You have great credit and only two outstanding loans. You'll be able to get a good interest rate, I would go ahead and buy now. If you are sure you'll be staying in the area, why not? Alot of the time, it's cheaper to buy than rent. Plus its a buyer's market in most places. Don't rely on the mortgage calculators though. When my husband and I bought a house, I tried those mortgage calculators online before seeing a mortgage broker. The calculators said almost twice as much as what we could actually afford. We wrote down all our bills, utilities, groceries, and and other monthly expenses and compared that to our income coming in. Quite a different number. I would see a realtor, they'll be able to help you find a house and see how much you can really afford. Good luck."

a_non_ah_mus replied: "Renting first would give you time to find the house you really want without rushing into things and give you time to figure out if you like the job enough to be financially tied to it."

dolly blaine replied: "As the name suggests, a student credit card is specially designed for students and is very different from your regular credit card. Because it may be the first time for college students to apply for a credit card, most credit card companies designed their student credit cards to be a form of secured credit cards. It will help a student to avoid accumulating high amounts of debt because of reckless spending. If you need groceries, or that recommended book but you don't have the money for it, then it may be time for you to use your student credit card. It is good if you start learning good financial habits from your student life itself. Don't use the card to pay for everything and anything. Use it judicially or it will land you in a debt to repay after the college finishes. It is not unusual to find the representatives of credit card companies promoting student credit card in college campuses. However, finding a right card will take much more than contacting the representative of credit card company. Develop a habit of shopping around and getting the best deal out there. Though the interest rates on student credit cards are relatively low, they also offer a low credit amount. If used judicially student credit card can become the perfect means to build a credit history and jumpstart your financial wellbeing. Read more about it at:"

20% down on house or pay off low interest credit card and/or car? We are planning on buying a new house. We have enough money to put a 20% down payment. We also have credit card and car payment debt that is a little less than the 20% we could use for the house. The interest rate on the card is 4.99%. The car loan is 6.4%. The home loan will probably be 6+%. Since the interest rate on the credit card is less than the rate of the home loan, would it be better to put the 20% down on the house and then try to pay off the card and car loan in a few years or would it be better to pay off the card and car loan now and and just put 5% down on the house and have to pay PMI? Or maybe something in between like pay off the card but not the car (or vice versa) and put 10% down on the house. Is there a calculator out there somewhere to calculate the cheapest route? Thanks... We are working on paying down the credit card and car loan. At current rate they should both be paid off in about 4 years.

mister_galager replied: "Depending on the mortgage amount, the PMI may be enough to make it worthwhile to put the 20% down to avoid paying it. And, 20% down will make your monthly mortgage payment less. Since neither the car or the credit card have very high interest rates, I suggest the 20% down on the house. Here's a website that has all kinds of calculators for mortgages, auto loans and credit card debt. Play with it a bit and I think you will agree that the 20% down on the house is the best way to go. "

A.P. replied: "I would say get out of debt first, THEN go into debt for the house. You will be able to afford a higher house payment because of the lower initial down payment, because you will have less debt. I'd pay off all the debt, then save money like mad for a few months (or a year or so). If you are paying 200/month for a car, and say 200 a month for the credit card payments, you can save up 400 a month AT LEAST. Put that into a high-interest CD or account for 6 months or a year, and you'd have a fairly hefty sum of money on your hands that you could use to pay off the car. Less debt is a good idea. If you buy the house now, you will be putting yourself under even further. But if you wait a year after you've gotten all your other debts paid off, you're in a much better financial situation if the market shifts and your mortgage goes up. If it goes up while you're still in debt for other things, you could be looking at a foreclosure, depending on your circumstances. Best of luck!"

bdancer222 replied: "Put the money on the downpayment. But you might start working on paying down that credit card. I don't know the balance or the credit limit but getting the debt to available limit ratio below 30% would make your credit score better and could mean a better interest rate on the house. Just don't overbuy on the house. Keep your payment around 25% of your income."

DallasLoanGuy replied: "Get a mortgage quote with and without 20% down. 5% down may give you more favorable terms. But if you don't put down 20%, then you will be paying a premium. Seriously sit down with a mortgage professional to look at all angles."

Duckboy replied: "I have a little bit of a different take on this.....First off, no matter what the credit card companies tell you, you never have a fixed rate...They can change it at will....Now all of a sudden they see a house payment going out, and these pricks decide to increase your interest rate.... Credit Card companies are evil. Dump the credit card. No matter what, never ever ever ever ever, go into a home loan that is an ARM....Make sure your mortgage is fixed!!!!"

imh400 replied: "Pay off the car and credit first. The interest on the house is tax deductible, where as the others are not. so 6.25% on the mortgage actually becomes (6.25% x (1-marginal tax rate (say 25%) = 4.68%. As long as your PMI is less than (6.25% - 4.68%) 1.57% of your home value it is worth paying off your other debt first."

amaya7 replied: "The interest rates aren't very high on the credit card or the car, so I would go ahead and put a down payment on a house. Good luck!"

How much of a home loan can I qualify for? Most "affordability" calculators online show a low loan amount. My husband and I live in Southern California and we are planning on getting pre-qualified for a home soon. I want to know what to expect as far as the amount of a home loan we can qualify for. My husband and I's net income is about $90k per year together. Our credit scores are both between 720 and 735. We have no credit card debt or student loans. Our only monthly debt is our vehicles, which combined is $950 a month. Online affordability calculators show a loan amount around $230 - $250k, which is pretty crappy for homes in southern California. How accurate are these calculators? Could we qualify for more? We have about $15,000 to put towards down payment and closing costs now and we hope to have another $5k at least buy the time we buy.

Rosita replied: "Try calling a mortage broker... they should be able to give you a free rough quote."

James O replied: "email me at and I will give you a free consultation today. I will give you some usefull info and tips while looking for a new home. Some I guarentee you haven't heard of. Ill be on my computer all day so any time is good."

Michelle C replied: "That affordability calculator based on your stated income sounds about right, mortgages are based on a percentage of your income. They also take into consideration any loans and auto loans. Remember the mortgage payment also includes property taxes and homeowners insurance. Your best bet is to contact a mortgage broker and start the preapproval process."

Predatorprey replied: "Well, one of the big reasons why cali is in such a housing slump is because of high cost of home bought by those who can't "really" afford it. Thats where the exotic loans came in and here we are today. Your monthly mortgage payment is ideally aprox 28 to 33% of your gross monthly income. Then including debt is like up to 40%."

Lisa L replied: "You need to go with gross income, not net income. It also depends on how much you can put down. Also, how much are you comfortable with for a payment, PITI? The whole picture needs to be looked at to determine what you can qualify for."

theshadow01 replied: "Not more than 2.5 times your annual gross. If your loan is more than that you will likely struggle badly with other expenses. Property tax, home owner's insurance, utilities, maintenance, etc add up quickly. Even if a lender qualifies you for more you should never take out a loan that you can't afford. $250K sounds like the high end for you as far as affordability."

Othniel replied: "You need to speak with a lender and see what is possible. Do you have any savings? How much down payment do you intend to pay? Are you going to pay your own closing costs? Do you have any other assets? Are you handy? Would you be willing to buy a "crappy" house and fix it up? Are you willing to buy in a not so nice neighborhood or do you want to continue to rent? Expand your horizons.There are many ways to think through this issue. Can you live with relatives and save money for a couple of years? Or can you rent something less expensive and save the difference? Do you really need two car payments?"

pay off credit cards or use with buying a car? OK, I know I need to get a different vehicle soon and what better time to do it then at tax time? I am anticipating about $1,000 back and I was thinking of using it to assist in purchasing a vehicle, but then I got to thinking, "Would it be better to pay off $1,000 of the $1,400 in credit card debt i'm in or use it for the vehicle?" The credit score analyzer calculator said my score would be around 680 if I paid my credit cards down that much (compared to my current 647 score). Should I pay that towards credit cards or use it toward a vehicle. Either way, I am going to the bank to get a vehicle loan, so if I used that $1,000 toward a vehicle, that would be a $1,000 less I need to borrow. I am stuck on this one guys...any suggestions?

Should I re finance my personal loan ? I currently have a personal loan and 2 credit cards which I am thinking of re financing into one personal loan. The person loan is a fixed loan and I still have around 2 or so years left on it. I have looked at a personal loan calculator to amalgamate all these debts and the repayments are $7.00 less per month than my current personal loan repayments, not to mention the extra money I am paying every month on the credit cards. The new interest rate If go ahead), is less than the interest rate I am paying on both the personal loan and the credit cards at the moment. The only downside I can see is that the personal loan that should be paid off in a few years will now not be paid off for 7 years. I am just about to stop my income as my maternity leave has stopped and am hoping not to have to go back to work for another 4 years (when my son goes to school), so the extra cash would really come in handy at the moment. I will be able to survive financially (hopefully) but the extra cash should really help. Besides the extra interest we are paying, is there any other things that I should be taking into account before going ahead with this ? I don't want to go ahead with this and then find that it was a bad choice and that I should have left it as it was. Thanx :)

coach replied: "As long as there isn't a large fee for the loan, it might not be a bad idea. One thing I'd like you to try first is to call your credit cards and ask for a lower rate; some cards even offer low rate balance transfers for the life of the loan. If you consolidate, I suggest taking the total that you are currently paying on the 3 debts and pay that towards the new loan as long as you can afford it. Also, make sure you have at least $1,000 in savings to cover emergencies. The worst thing you can do is consolidate these debts and then borrow more money."

edwin replied: "yes you should... it's better for you, if you can, to transfer you account into a lower rate, then try to pay it every month..."

What is a smart amount to borrow for a mortgage based on my income? My wife and I make $80,000 between us. We only have one car payment and it is $500/month. I have no other loans or credit card debt. My credit is an 805 Equifax and 762 Transunion. I am also aware of the ratio calculators but I am not looking to borrow the maximum amount and overextend myself. Does anyone know of any other calculators that are more conservative

howtogooru replied: "I don't know where to find any calculators, so I can't help you there, but I know someone who would be glad to help you decide what is a good number for you. His name is Doug, and he owns a small mortgage company called "Dedicated Mortgage Services". The thing is with this guy, he will NOT jump in to sales mode on you. He is genuine and incredibly knowledgeable. His website is and his email is Just tell him the How To Gooru sent you. God luck and God bless!"

Jason replied: "The old rule has always been that you should be able to pay your rent/mortgage with what you make in 1 week, so 80,000 / 52 is $1538 which would be the ideal mortgage for you guys... $1538 per month that is... so factor in your down payment, do the math with a mortgage calculator and see what that comes to...."

nationw1de replied: "25-30% of your income should pay for housing. So about $2000-$2400. This should include mortgage, insurance, water, sewer, hoa, garbage, landscaping, etc. Our site has many calculators just visit my profile."

Need ideas with debt and savings? Just started working a month ago after college, currently make 550 weekly after taxes, will go down more in July once receive benefits. Have nearly 5000 in debt across 3 credit cards... 550 on 23%apr (ripped up) 1300 and 2800 on 15%apr cards. I used a Snowball calculator but am trying to distribute the money between all three equally cause I place my purchases on the two higher balances anyway before ripped up other card. My short term goals are to apply for an auto loan within 6 months and move into an apartment within 18 months. I would like to know if I need to be debt free to obtain approval or possibly have some remaining debt. My initial goal was to place each paycheck into removing the debt but then I would have no money left allocated for a down payment on auto loan as well as no money into an emergency fund for moving out. Is there a better method which may enable me to distribute my paychecks (debt, auto loan down payment, moving out)?

girlwhoknowsitstrue replied: "Your debt snowball has the answer - you're not ready for an auto loan in 6 months - wait until you have enough money to buy a used car for cash - probably within a year - and then go to roommates.com and get a roomate for your apartment."

Brian B replied: "I would definately get rid of that debt before applying for a car loan. Having some debt wouldn't stop you from getting a loan, but having CC payments in addition to a car payment and rent can be difficult for a young person just starting out. You don't have too much debt, so take advantage of that and get rid of it and don't build it up again. Keep just ONE card, for emergencies only, throw the others away. See if any of your cards would allow you to transfer debt from the other cards to them with a low interest rate, and make that transfer if you can. Interest is everything. I would also suggest you buy a very inexpensive car, as you simply don't make enough to try to afford a large payment. You may be able to DO it, but you don't want to work just to pay for a car. Don't get any of the add ons, no rustproofing, no extended warranty. You'll also want to put at least $1000 down payment on that. Get rid of the 23% first. You will probably also need 1st and last months rent as a security deposit. You are in a good position in that you can control your situation rather than your situation controlling you. You don't just have to do this within six months, you can do it when you have your finances completely under control. So don't let the 6 months concept force you into an uncomfortable financial situation. Almost all young people make the mistake of piling up credit card debt and if you can avoid that, using them only for emergencies and things you plan to and can pay off each month, you will have a HUGE leg up on you financial future. In about a year, get started on a ROTH IRA so you have money as a geezer. So I don't think it's so much an issue of distribution, it's more a matter of doing this in a controlled, orderly way and not forcing an artificial 6 month window to dictate your decisions."

Mack replied: "Here is what I would do. Negotiate with the lenders to get lowest possible rates even if you get it for 6 months and transfer your money to that lender. Pay more than minimum amount or pay biggest amount you can afford to and keep some money for yourself. Stop buying new things with the credit cards. You can use about 50 to 70% of your pay towards reducing the highest credit card debt. Pay off the highest card first while making payments to other cards. Switch all of your card debts or the one with 23% to another card [you need discipline] with 0 to 3% APR and payoff the entire amount in less than 6 months. Manage your lifestyle, stay within your budget and you will never have this problem in your life. Work overtime on Saturdays to earn more if possible or get a part time stress free second job. Get a loan from your credit union instead of a bank or the dealers for the car purchase to get better rates. Get a slightly used car with less than 25,000 miles [1-2 yr old]instead of brand new, you will save about 25 to 30% on a car. Check car rental agencies for their inventories. They sell their cars after 25K miles while they still have the original factory warranty on the vehicles. Do something that you like, [hobby or sports activity] so that you are not substituting shopping for happiness."

Michelle replied: "If you can pay $98/mo on your $550 balance you will be able to pay it off in 6 months. Pay $100/mo on your $1300 and $150/mo for 14 months and $250 for 5 months on your $2800 you will have them paid off in 19 months."

antwan1357 replied: "no more financing"

When Calculating with the affordable home calculator...? When i use the affordable home calculator, such as this one What do i count in monthly debt? Such credit cards, car, and other loans? or do i consider things like food, water/electric/gas/cable/phone....? When using the calculator monthly debt makes a huge difference in the house price. My wife and i would have a combined income of around $100,000. Any idea how much we would get approved for?

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